Day 58: Pennine Way - Greenhead to Once Brewed

Day 13 on the Hadrian’s Wall Path. Sorry, I mean the Pennine Way. For all of today, and part of tomorrow, both national trails follow the same route, which has meant an influx of walkers on the path. 

• Date: 17 May 2024
• Start: Greenhead
• End: Once Brewed
• Miles: 7.7
• Total miles: 772.0
• Accommodation: YHA The Sill

Are you thinking that only walking 7.7 miles today is pathetic? Well, yes it kind of is. There’s a couple of reasons for this. My guide book suggests you can do the section to Bellingham in one day, but it’s well over 20 miles. It also covers Hadrian’s Wall, so lots of sightseeing, so you need a bit more time. 

The second reason, you’ll find that out in a few days. So, I decided to split this section into two uneven days, staying in a hostel near the Sycamore Gap, which I’ll see tomorrow, although I’m not sure it’s even worth seeing anymore. 

I left Greenhead and immediately joined the Pennine Way/Hadrian’s Wall combo path, heading onto the site of Thirlwall Castle. 

I then hit a huge hill up to a section of the still standing wall. There were lots of people about today, as Hadrian’s Wall has its own national trail that people are walking, as well as the additional day walkers. 

It was particularly hilly today, with lots of ups and downs, so I’m glad I split the walk into two. I bumped into more tourists as the path went on. They always seem to get in the way of you as well. JUST MOVE!

After reaching the highest point of the wall, I headed just off the path to Once Brewed. This isn’t a village, it’s just an area with that name. The name comes from the founder of the YHA, who wanted a cup a tea once brewed rather than twice brewed like the pub next door. 

Speaking of the Twice Brewed pub, I went there for lunch and a beer. They have their own brewing company, coincidently called Twice Brewed. I stayed here until I was able to check into my hostel. 

After checking into the hostel with the useless reception staff, I headed to my room and for a shower. I then went to the taproom next door and had some strawberry milkshake beer, delicious. 

That was it for the evening, as I settled down in the hostel. Back to business tomorrow.