Day 15: Barnstaple to Stoke Rivers

I’ve started my climb towards Exmoor, heading through Barnstable and up roads out the other side. A generally dull and soggy day with lots of road walking. 

• Date: 4 April 2024
• Start: Barnstaple
• End: Stoke Rivers
• Miles: 9.2
• Total miles: 187.0
• Accommodation: Stoke House B&B

I purposely set a short route today so I could spend most of the morning chilling at the hotel. It was just as well, as the weather has been dreadful today. 

It was a rather boring few miles through Barnstaple and out the top, but I did bump into a lady outside her house, who is a Exmoor National Park ranger, and talked about my walk and the practicalities of crossing Exmoor. 

I then came off road and it was time to get the new poles out. They were needed due to the volume of mud (surprise) and really did help a lot. The mud is getting rather old now though and I really hope it disappears soon. 

I found a footpath that was a bit drier, but did get into a bit of difficulty when it suddenly ended and I had to scramble through the undergrowth to get back on track. 

I eventually ended up back on a good path, went under an old viaduct, and headed up a steep road to the bed and breakfast I’d booked tonight (mainly due to lack of campsites, but also very welcome with a wet night forecast). 

I enjoyed a nice cup of hot chocolate while watching the rain through my window before joining the owners and two guys from Scotland who were cycling from Land’s End to John O’Groats, for dinner. From Barnstaple and for the next few days, I’m loosely on the same route as the cycle version of End To End, so may bump into others who are doing this challenge. 

Tomorrow, I climb onto the top of Exmoor, camping in a pub garden.